Country
World Heritage Site
The monument everyone arrives for, the city behind it, and the deserted Mughal capital thirty kilometres away.
City
Three cities in one: Shahjahanabad, Lutyens Delhi and the villages that predate both.
City
The pink city, the hill forts that defended it, and the desert beyond that most itineraries skip.
A thousand kilometres of lagoons that are actually canals, and the tea and spice hills above them.
The oldest continuously inhabited city in the world, and what it is actually like at four in the morning on a ghat.
Agra, Fatehpur Sikri and the Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal is the reason most people come to Agra, but the city behind it, the Mughal fort, the riverside garden and the abandoned capital at Fatehpur Sikri make a fuller journey. This guide covers the practical details, history, missed corners, costs, crowds, food and operating advice for one of India's most demanding visitor routes.
35 min read
Jaipur and the Forts of Rajasthan
The pink city, the hill forts that defended it, and the desert beyond that most itineraries skip.
17 min read
Varanasi and the Ganges
The oldest continuously inhabited city in the world, and what it is actually like at four in the morning on a ghat, from working boats to wood smoke and open drains.
17 min read
Kerala: the Backwaters and the Hill Stations
A thousand kilometres of lagoons that are actually canals, and the tea and spice hills above them.
15 min read
Delhi: Old City, New City and the Mughal Layer
Three cities in one: Shahjahanabad, Lutyens Delhi and the villages that predate both.
18 min read