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Kathmandu Durbar Square
Kathmandu Durbar Square is Nepal’s working royal and religious precinct, not a static museum. Here is what survived the 1934 and 2015 earthquakes, what remains difficult to enter, what the Kumari tradition means, what the tickets cost, and how guides should move a group through without blocking residents.
27 min read
Changu Narayan
Changu Narayan is not a quiet archaeological stop. It is an active Newar religious centre, with the Taleju temple, an ancient inscription built into its wall, two small museums, village potters and a state chariot festival that has little interest in staging itself for visitors.