Poon Hill and the Annapurna Views: A Practical Gandaki Trek

The walk from Nayapul to Ghandruk

Poon Hill stands at about 28.4000 N, 83.6900 E in Kaski District, within Annapurna Conservation Area in Gandaki Province. The summit is 3,210 metres above sea level. This is not a remote expedition. It is a busy two-day walking route from Pokhara, but it involves real elevation, long teahouse days and a mountain view that cannot be guaranteed by the calendar alone.

Most trekkers reach the foot of the trail by bus from Pokhara to Nayapul, which sits near 1,070 metres. From Nayapul, the route crosses the river and joins a path that passes through Birethanti before climbing toward Samrung and Ghandruk. Allow 9 to 11 kilometres and five and a half to seven hours for the first day if you are walking the full trail from the bus stop.

The profile is easier to understand as two stages. The first hour is mostly a warm, dusty road or path near Birethanti. The route then turns uphill and climbs roughly 800 to 900 metres to Ghandruk at about 1,940 metres. The last section alternates between short steep pitches and flatter stretches through forest and villages. It is manageable for a reasonably fit walker, but the final climb arrives after several hours in humid air.

Jeep traffic on the road above Birethanti can be noisy, and trucks throw up dust and stones. Walk close to the verge and keep water and a scarf handy. A jeep can also cut most of the walking by taking you to Samrung, from which Ghandruk is roughly a 90-minute climb. That saves time but skips the quieter lower trail. If you have come to walk rather than ride, start at Nayapul.

Inside Ghandruk, the Gurung village

Ghandruk is a Gurung-majority village spread along a ridge above the Marsyangdi valley. It is a working settlement with guesthouses, shops, farm tracks, school buildings and family homes, not a preserved open-air museum. Tourism provides much of the income now, but you will also meet farmers moving between fields and lodges buying sacks of potatoes, rice and fuel.

Many older houses have stone walls bonded with mud mortar, timber lintels and corrugated metal or slate roofs. The ground floor may hold animals, storage or a kitchen, while the family lives above. Windows are small because the walls are thick and the rooms are heated by a stove. Courtyards and narrow stone lanes connect the houses.

Newer buildings use concrete blocks and larger metal roofs, and many old homes have been converted into teahouses. The 2015 earthquake damaged a substantial part of the village, and some houses remain repaired, altered or empty. Look closely rather than assuming every old building is occupied. A row of fresh concrete guesthouses beside a weathered stone home is normal in Ghandruk today.

Electricity reaches many parts of Ghandruk, although power cuts and weak sockets still occur. Mobile coverage is better in the village than on the ridge but is not dependable. Heating is not provided in most rooms, and hot water may be available only at certain hours. Treat the village as a practical stop with a good mountain outlook, not as a polished resort.

Poon Hill at dawn and the first light on Annapurna South

Start walking at about 4.30 to 5 a.m., with a headlamp and enough time to reach the ridge before sunrise. In late October, sunrise is around 5.55 a.m.; in late November and March it is close to 6.10 a.m.; by early April it is back near 5.55 a.m. These times shift, so ask your lodge for the local sunrise time rather than relying on an old itinerary.

The trail from Ghandruk to Poon Hill is only about 2 to 2.5 kilometres, but it gains roughly 1,200 metres from the village to the summit. It climbs through rhododendron and pine, crosses a shoulder and follows a steep final path. Fit walkers reach the top in 50 to 70 minutes. Allow 90 minutes if the ground is wet or if you are carrying more than a daypack.

Before sunrise, the eastern peaks appear as dark shapes above a blue-grey valley. The first direct light usually strikes the snow on Annapurna South, the 8,091-metre summit that dominates the view. The light then moves across Hiunchuli, Machhapuchhre and the higher Annapurna summits. For a few minutes the peaks are orange or pink while the hills around Poon Hill remain in shadow.

The wider panorama includes Annapurna South, Annapurna Central at 7,451 metres, Annapurna North at 7,574 metres, Hiunchuli at 6,926 metres and the distinctive double summit of Machhapuchhre at 6,983 metres. The nearer ridges fill the foreground. Low cloud can hide all of it, while dust or haze can leave the distant peaks pale and indistinct.

On clear mornings in October and April, the summit soon fills with trekkers. The first arrivals get space at the railing, while later groups stand on the path and photograph one another. Lodge terraces can be packed at breakfast. The crowding is frustrating but does not prevent the view, and the wind at the top often clears the air more effectively than it does lower down.

“If the peaks are hidden when you reach the top, wait for tea and try again. The clouds can lift later in the morning.” Bimala Gurung, a Ghandruk teahouse owner

A second attempt is useful, not certain. The same weather pattern can last two days, and sunset is less reliable than sunrise because the atmosphere often remains hazy. If the first morning is blanketed, check the forecast and local advice before changing the route. Do not descend an exposed trail in thunder, heavy rain or high wind merely to meet a bus schedule.

Over the ridge to Deurali and the sanctuary trail

The route does not end at Poon Hill. From the summit, the trail drops steeply through trees to Deurali, a settlement at roughly 2,300 metres. The descent is about 900 metres and takes 90 to 120 minutes. Stone steps, exposed roots and loose wet ground make it harder on the knees than the climb. If Poon Hill is the main goal, it is reasonable to return to Ghandruk instead.

Deurali is the last large cluster of lodges, shops and teahouses on the direct Annapurna Base Camp route. From there, Machhapuchhre Base Camp is a 3.5 to 4.5-hour climb to about 3,700 metres. Annapurna Base Camp lies another 1.5 to 2 hours farther on at 4,130 metres. Continuing to the sanctuary means committing to several more days of sleeping high and dealing with a much colder, more changeable climate.

The Deurali approach includes narrow paths, steep gullies, avalanche and rockfall terrain, and streams that rise quickly after rain. It is not a casual extra loop around Poon Hill. Check local conditions in Deurali, keep rain cover and insulation in your pack, and turn back if guides or lodge owners report unsafe conditions.

The Annapurna Conservation Area and the permit

Ghandruk, Poon Hill and Deurali all sit within Annapurna Conservation Area. The permit funds village development, trail maintenance, waste management and conservation work. You may be asked to show the permit and your passport at a checkpoint. Carry the original passport rather than relying on a photograph, and keep the permit accessible in your daypack.

The Annapurna Conservation Area entry permit costs 3,000 rupees for foreign nationals. That is the visitor entrance charge for this route. Poon Hill, Ghandruk and Deurali have no separate viewpoint or trail ticket, so the rest of the walk is free of access fees. The permit does not include a porter, guide, meals or accommodation.

The simplest place to obtain it is the Tourist Service Center in Pokhara, where you ask specifically for an Annapurna Conservation Area permit. The standard Poon Hill route and the direct Annapurna Base Camp approach use the conservation area permit. Special restricted-area permits for Manang and other controlled corridors do not apply to this route. Check the current Nepal Tourism Board counter if you plan to go beyond Deurali, since government rules can change.

Do not buy a supposed Poon Hill permit from a shop or roadside fixer, and do not pay for a ticket that does not exist. Keep the receipt until the end of the trek. A guide can help with registration and route conditions, but the permit fee is separate from a guide's daily rate.

Hiring a porter without overpaying or underpaying

A porter carries your main duffel while you keep clothing, water, food and rain gear in a daypack. A reasonable load is 15 to 20 kilograms, depending on the porter and the condition of the trail. Ask what weight the person is carrying, not just the price. A porter still walks at the pace of the group and has a long working day even when the distance looks short on a map.

For an experienced local porter, a fair daily rate is about 2,000 to 2,500 rupees. The quote may include food and a bed, or it may add a daily food allowance and lodge costs. Agency prices are often 2,500 to 3,500 rupees a day because they include recruitment, insurance and overhead. Confirm in writing what is included, who pays for meals and transport, and how many days are charged.

A four-day route can occupy a porter for five calendar days. At 2,200 rupees a day, that is 11,000 rupees before any tip. A tip of about 10 to 15 per cent is optional but reasonable for good work. A very low quote can mean the porter is expected to carry too much or cover food from a low wage. A licensed guide usually costs 3,000 to 4,000 rupees a day.

Check that the porter has suitable shoes, a rain cover and a load that can be lifted without strain. Book through a reputable agency or ask your Ghandruk lodge for a known local porter. Do not leave a porter stranded at a junction, reduce the agreed wage after the trek or expect someone to carry 25 kilograms because the mountain looks small on a map.

Teahouses, rooms and potato dhal

The accommodation system is simple. Family guesthouses in Ghandruk, Deurali and on the Poon Hill ridge provide a bed, blankets, shared washing facilities and simple meals. Properties in Ghandruk have traded under names including Himalaya View Lodge, Royal Pokhara Lodge and Green View Lodge. Poon Hill Mountain View Lodge is the best-known summit lodge, while Deurali has Deurali Mountain View Lodge, Hotel Greenland and other small houses. Ownership and opening arrangements change, so confirm before relying on a name.

A basic private room in Ghandruk usually costs 600 to 1,200 rupees, while better-view rooms and peak-season bookings can reach 1,500 to 2,000 rupees. Poon Hill rooms are commonly 400 to 800 rupees and Deurali rooms 500 to 1,000 rupees. Most have shared toilets, a squat or western-style toilet, thin walls and no heating. One person should not expect a double room at the quoted single-room rate.

Food is simple and more expensive as the trail climbs. In Ghandruk, potato dhal with rice costs roughly 450 to 650 rupees. Dal bhat is commonly 600 to 800 rupees, noodles 500 to 800 rupees and momos 350 to 600 rupees. At Poon Hill, expect the potato dhal to cost around 600 to 900 rupees because supplies are carried up the hill. Dal bhat usually includes a refill, but check before ordering.

Potato dhal is the sensible breakfast before a dawn start because it is filling and does not cost more than the larger Western breakfasts. Some lodges serve eggs, pancakes and porridge, but these are not dependable at 5 a.m. Order dinner when you arrive because kitchens close, often by 8 or 9 p.m. Do not assume pork or other meat is available, and tell the kitchen about food allergies before it starts cooking.

Hot water commonly costs 200 to 500 rupees, device charging 200 to 500 rupees and Wi-Fi 200 to 400 rupees. The Wi-Fi may work only in the dining room. Western toilets are not guaranteed, and toilet paper is often sold separately. Carry small notes because card payments and ATMs are unreliable beyond Ghandruk. In the morning, eat in the village or at the summit lodge, and do not expect a full restaurant menu.

A four-day plan, or three if you are efficient

The standard four-day schedule is workable. Day 1 is the bus from Pokhara to Nayapul, followed by the five-and-a-half to seven-hour walk to Ghandruk. Day 2 starts before dawn, reaches Poon Hill and continues down to Deurali. Day 3 walks to Jhinu Danda or Samrung, with an optional visit to the hot springs at Jhinu. Day 4 reaches Nayapul and catches a bus back to Pokhara.

A four-day journey is also the minimum sensible plan if bad weather may cost you the first sunrise. Day 3 can become a second attempt from Deurali, followed by a later descent. Five days gives a much safer margin. A dedicated fifth day is better if you are booking non-refundable buses, carrying expensive camera gear or have never walked at this altitude before.

The route can be compressed to three days. Spend day 1 in Ghandruk, reach Poon Hill at sunrise and descend to Deurali on day 2, then walk from Deurali to Nayapul and catch the bus on day 3. This leaves no spare morning, omits Jhinu and makes the last day long. Do not compress it further by trying to reach Pokhara after sunrise on the Poon Hill day.

Season, altitude and the warning about clouds

October to November and March to April are the best seasons. October and late March offer the clearest settled weather, while November can be cooler and less crowded. Clear mornings often follow rain once the front has passed, but that pattern is not a promise. Spring brings warmer afternoons, dry dust and more traffic. December to February can be clear but freezing, with snow and ice on the Poon Hill trail and some lodges closed.

The monsoon from June to August brings leeches, swollen streams, landslides and long periods under cloud. The lower trail can be unpleasant even when the peaks are briefly visible. The warning worth reading is this: build in a spare day so you can try the sunrise again. If the ridge is covered at 6 a.m., do not assume it has improved by 8 a.m. Check from a lodge with a view and keep the following day flexible.

At dawn on Poon Hill, expect roughly 3 to 8 degrees Celsius in October and April. Wind makes it feel colder, and winter temperatures can fall below freezing. Ghandruk, at 1,940 metres, is high enough for some people to feel short of breath, while Poon Hill reaches 3,210 metres. Mild headache and tiredness are common. Persistent vomiting, confusion, loss of coordination or breathlessness at rest means stop ascending, descend and seek medical help.

The bus from Pokhara to Nayapul

Take a bus from Pokhara Bus Park to Nayapul, then begin the walk. A tourist bus normally takes 2.5 to 3.5 hours and costs about 600 to 900 rupees, depending on the operator and current fare. A local bus is roughly 300 to 500 rupees and may take three to four hours. Traffic around Pokhara and the bus station itself can add time, so do not book a Pokhara connection on the same morning as the Poon Hill sunrise.

Ask the driver or ticket seller whether the bus stops at Nayapul. Services marked for Baglung or Beni commonly pass through, but not every bus makes the same stop. The trailhead is on the far side of the river at Nayapul. Local buses back toward Pokhara are often available in the early afternoon, but the last departure can be earlier than expected. Ask in Ghandruk or Deurali before setting off for the road.

A shared jeep from Nayapul to Samrung can save roughly 90 minutes of the return walk. It also puts you on a road with buses, trucks and dust, and some jeeps continue past the normal drop-off. If you use one, agree the stopping point and price before getting in. The bus-and-walk route is the standard approach and gives you the full first day of the trail.

A workable budget in rupees

A four-day self-guided trip costs about 8,000 to 13,000 rupees per person, excluding international travel and equipment. A typical breakdown is 3,000 for the conservation permit, 1,000 to 1,600 for two bus journeys, 1,500 to 3,600 for three nights and 2,100 to 4,800 for meals. Shared rooms, simple meals and public buses keep the cost down.

Adding a porter for four to five working days usually adds 8,000 to 13,000 rupees, bringing the total to about 15,000 to 24,000 rupees before tips. A private guide adds roughly 12,000 to 16,000 rupees for a four-day guide and the same four-day room and food costs for that person. Carry 20,000 to 30,000 rupees in small notes for the trail. There is no dependable ATM after Ghandruk.

Poon Hill and the Annapurna Views, Nepal

What to carry and what to avoid

Use a 5 to 7-litre daypack and a porter duffel if you are hiring help. Carry two litres of water, purification tablets or a reliable filter, a warm layer, fleece, waterproof jacket, gloves, warm hat, sun hat and sunscreen. A headlamp with spare batteries, power bank, offline map, first-aid kit, blister plasters, toilet paper and hand sanitiser are more useful than camping equipment. Teahouses provide blankets, so a sleeping bag is normally unnecessary.

In winter, carry microspikes and check whether the upper trail is snow-covered. In the monsoon, add leech socks, quick-dry clothing and a pack liner. Do not drink untreated spring or tap water. Do not assume a lodge has hot water, reliable charging, a restaurant menu or staff on duty at 5 a.m. Avoid overloaded porters, unregistered permit sellers, late-night arrivals on exposed ground and a same-day bus deadline after the Poon Hill sunrise.

Poon Hill is a practical short trek rather than a guaranteed photo stop. The 3,000-rupee permit, a 4 a.m. alarm and a clear morning do the work. Check the forecast, carry cash, leave before 5 a.m. and allow a fourth day if the weather is doubtful. The view from Annapurna South is worth reaching slowly, not by rushing the trail or cutting the spare morning.