Tokyo Neighbourhoods: A Practical Guide to Kanto's Capital

Tokyo is easier to understand as a chain of neighbourhoods than as a single city centre. The area around the Imperial Palace is the historic administrative core, but most visitors spend their time in places that seem to belong to separate towns: Asakusa, Koenji, Tsukiji, Shibuya and the waterfront districts east of the Sumida River. The useful habit is to plan by neighbourhood rather than by a list of famous places. You can spend a morning at a market, an afternoon among second-hand shops and an evening in a small bar without treating each change of location as a major excursion. Five days is the sensible minimum for the areas in this guide. More is better if you want to take one neighbourhood at a time.

Asakusa and Senso-ji: Nakamise before eight

Sensō-ji, founded in 645, is Tokyo's oldest surviving temple and the anchor of Asakusa. The approach begins at Kaminarimon, whose large red lantern has become one of the city's most photographed objects, but the commercial street is more useful as a place to walk. Nakamise runs for about 250 metres and contains roughly 90 shops selling sweets, fans, chopsticks, kitchen goods, paper ornaments and small Buddhist figures. The temple itself is free to enter. A separate garden costs 500 yen for adults. From Asakusa Station on the Ginza Line, the gate and main hall are about a one-minute walk away.

At 7 a.m., Nakamise is not yet a busy market. Most shop shutters are still down, although a handful of vendors begin preparing around 8. The temple main hall opens at about 6 a.m. from April to October and 6:30 a.m. from October to March, so early visitors can hear the bell, see worshippers and watch the street slowly come to life without the pressure of a tour group. By 9:30, coach parties and camera groups fill the main approach. If shopping is the priority, arrive between 8:30 and 10 a.m., when more stalls have opened but the worst congestion has not developed. If the priority is the temple, come before 8 and accept that many food stalls will still be closed.

Asakusa is not a bargain by central Tokyo standards. A simple drink or a set of small sweets commonly costs 700 to 1,200 yen, and a ningyō-yaki cake is often 500 to 800 yen. The souvenir shops are better for browsing than for inexpensive snacks. Walk north toward the Sumida River after the temple, a ten-minute trip, or eat on the side streets behind Asakusa rather than at the most obvious storefronts. The river path is useful for a short reset, but the older shopping lanes close earlier than the bars and restaurants.

Shimokitazawa, Koenji and Nakano: three useful local centres

Shimokitazawa is the most visibly specialist of the three. Three railway lines meet here, and the compact centre contains second-hand clothes shops, record stores, small music venues, bars, cafes and older cinemas. Most shops open around 11 a.m. and close between 7 and 9 p.m., so an early arrival is wasted unless you want breakfast. Weekdays are easier for walking and browsing. At weekends, the narrow pavements around the station become congested and shop assistants are less willing to chat. The Odakyu line is the easiest entrance, although the station has several confusing levels and exits.

Koenji has less of a single theme. Its old centre has independent clothing shops, a strong second-hand scene, jazz clubs and bars that attract local regulars rather than visitors looking for a night out. The Kanda River and the streets behind the JR station are quieter than Shinjuku, which makes Koenji a reasonable place for a slow lunch. Be aware that many small businesses close on Sundays and holidays. Nakano is more collector-focused. Nakano Broadway contains Mandarake, Surugaya and several stores devoted to anime, manga, games and model figures. It is worth an hour if that is your interest, but it can be repetitive if you are not already familiar with the subject. Nakano Station has four tracks, with the platforms divided between north and south exits. Allow at least ten minutes to get out of the correct side.

A practical route is to start in Nakano around 10:30 a.m., take the local train one stop to Koenji, then continue through Shinjuku to Shimokitazawa. Allocate six or seven hours including travel. A simple lunch costs 800 to 1,500 yen, records usually sell for 1,000 to 3,000 yen, and second-hand clothing ranges from about 500 yen for a single item to several thousand yen for better pieces. Carry some cash, since the smaller shops are more likely to refuse cards. If you have only half a day, choose one neighbourhood rather than rushing between all three.

Meiji Shrine and Yoyogi: the forest on the Olympic village

Meiji Shrine was founded in 1920 on what was then the rural edge of Tokyo. The timing matters because the same grounds were used for the athletes' village during the 1920 Olympic Games. After the Games, the cleared ground was replanted. The resulting forest covers about 70 hectares and contains roughly 100,000 trees. Some were supplied by 27 countries to re-create the wooded landscapes associated with Emperor Meiji. It is therefore a planted ceremonial forest, not an ancient woodland that happened to survive beside a stadium. The shrine is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, and admission to the main precinct is free.

The inner garden costs 600 yen and is worth adding if you have time, but most visitors get more from the free forest paths. The Harajuku entrance is a 10 to 15-minute walk from the JR station, while Yoyogi Station is five to ten minutes away on the other side. Allow two to three hours for the precinct, Yoyogi Park and a meal. Go before 9 a.m. to avoid the largest weekend crowds. The shrine is exceptionally busy around New Year, when visitors number in the hundreds of thousands, and the ginkgo avenue at Meiji Jingu Gaien is better on a weekday morning. The Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery charges about 1,000 yen.

Tsukiji Outer Market and the missing inner market

Tsukiji Outer Market still works as a food market. It runs for about 250 metres and contains roughly 400 independent shops, many of them family businesses dealing directly with buyers. The best time is 7:30 to 10 a.m., when knives, dried goods, tea, pickles, seafood and prepared food are all available. Most shops finish by early afternoon. A seafood bowl or grilled set commonly costs 1,500 to 3,000 yen, while a simpler breakfast is likely to cost 1,000 to 2,000 yen. The market is crowded, and visitors moving against the flow of shop workers can be a nuisance. Sunday and public-holiday closures are common, so check before making the trip.

At Tsukiji, almost none of the old inner market survives in its original form. The wholesale operation moved to the larger Toyosu Market in 2018. Its trading survives there, but the new site is a working distribution centre rather than a public shopping hall. Casual visitors cannot simply walk into the wholesale area, and a proper market visit normally has to be arranged through a wholesaler. Only a small number of suppliers and market-related businesses remain near the old site. The outer market is separate from that wholesale organisation, even though people often use the two names interchangeably. Do not expect the old fish auction viewing area or a public seafood hall at Tsukiji.

Golden Gai and the twenty-square-metre bars

Golden Gai in Shinjuku consists of roughly six narrow blocks containing more than 200 bars, restaurants and host clubs. Many of the drinking establishments are about twenty square metres, although that is a useful description rather than a uniform floor plan. Some seat five people, while others hold twenty or more behind a narrow counter. Ground-floor rooms are generally small bars; many of the upper floors are host clubs with a different format and charging system. The alleys can look welcoming after dark, but most venues have restricted access. You cannot walk into every bar and expect a seat.

Many bars add a cover charge of 500 to 1,000 yen and set a drink minimum of 1,000 to 2,000 yen. Some no longer charge for entry but impose a higher minimum instead. For a first visit, budget 2,000 to 3,500 yen for admission and the first drink rather than expecting a 500-yen bar tab. Cash is still the safest option. Many rooms have stairs, limited ventilation and no toilet, and some close on Sundays or public holidays. Typical opening times run from about 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. or later. If you want a wider, less formal street with easier tables and more visible food counters, Omoide Yokocho is a few minutes away and is not part of Golden Gai.

“If you have two hours, drink slowly. Nobody here is trying to rush you out.” Aiko Mori, a Golden Gai bar owner who has run a six-seat bar for nine years.

Odaiba and the waterfront after the empty Olympics

Odaiba sits on reclaimed land and is best understood as a waterfront district rather than a single attraction. The Yurikamome elevated train runs from Shimbashi to Odaiba in about 15 minutes for roughly 760 to 820 yen, depending on the destination. Walking across Rainbow Bridge takes 10 to 15 minutes and costs nothing. The main attractions are shopping malls, teamLab installations, the MiraCosta science centre and the DiverCity district with its large Gundam statue. The waterfront promenade has benches and broad views, but Odaiba is not a swimming beach. Paid attractions commonly cost 1,000 to 3,000 yen, and the most popular ones sell timed tickets.

The planned 2020 Olympics exposed the contradiction in the new waterfront. The Games were delayed by the pandemic and held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 under the Tokyo 2020 name. Foreign spectators were not admitted, and domestic attendance was restricted at many venues. Olympic signs, spectator routes and transport planning were in place, while large parts of the event were empty. Some beach volleyball took place in nearby Ariake, not on the central Odaiba promenade, and the athletes' village was in Yoyogi, several kilometres away. The result was polished public space built for international crowds but used by comparatively few people. The irony is literal: the Games were called Tokyo 2020 and their principal spectator audience was absent.

Skytree and Shibuya: choosing an observation deck

Tokyo Skytree is 634 metres tall, but its public viewing areas are at 350 metres and 450 metres. A standard ticket is commonly about 2,100 yen with an advance group purchase and 2,600 yen on the day. The package that includes the 634-metre level is about 3,100 yen. For most visitors, the 350-metre Tembo Deck provides the broad view and is enough; the upper gallery is worthwhile mainly on an exceptionally clear day. Choose timed tickets and book at least a week ahead for sunset. A 30 to 60-minute security and lift queue is common, so arrive 60 to 90 minutes before sunset if the view is the main purpose.

Shibuya Sky is the stronger choice for a close view of central Tokyo. It reaches 229 metres and has an open rooftop on the 45th floor plus a glass-walled indoor level on the 46th. Tickets are roughly 2,200 yen when booked ahead and 2,500 yen on the day, and reservations can disappear two to four weeks in advance during cherry-blossom and autumn periods. The rooftop is exposed to wind and rain, while the indoor level is the sensible option in poor weather. Shibuya Sky is better than Skytree for seeing the city grid, but neither is good under a solid cloud layer. Do not pay for both on the same trip. The crossing itself, public walkways and some cafés provide free street-level views.

If you can visit only one deck, choose Skytree for height and a wide skyline, and Shibuya Sky for the rooftop and central landmarks. Avoid adding a second paid deck such as Sky Q unless you have a specific reason. The free observation area at Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building is also often closed, so do not build a route around it. From Shinjuku, Skytree is about 20 to 25 minutes away via the Toei Asakusa Line and a short walk from Oshiage. From Shibuya, allow 30 to 40 minutes and one interchange.

How to plan five days in Tokyo

A workable five-day schedule is not a race through the main sights. Day 1 starts with Asakusa and Sensō-ji before 8 a.m., followed by the Sumida River and Ueno if you want museums that day. Day 2 covers Nakano, Koenji and Shimokitazawa from late morning to early evening. Day 3 combines Meiji Shrine, Yoyogi and Harajuku, then Shibuya and Skytree at sunset. Day 4 begins at Tsukiji around 8 a.m. and moves on to Odaiba for the afternoon. Day 5 leaves the morning for a local area and ends in Golden Gai after 7 p.m. Five days gives you these districts without changing hotels. More if you want to go day by day, add a day for Ueno or Kagurazaka, and another if you intend to visit several museums properly.

When to go and what weather to expect

The best seasons are March and April, and October and November. Typical daytime highs are about 12°C in March, 19°C in April, 19°C in October and 14°C in November. Nights are cooler, and a light jacket is useful in March, April and November. Cherry blossom normally appears from late March into early April, but the exact date changes with the weather and can vary across the city. Autumn colour starts in late November, often after the best-season window has passed, and draws large weekend crowds. May is usually less busy but can be humid. June and July belong to the rainy season, while August and September bring the greatest heat and typhoon risk.

Getting to Tokyo from Haneda and Narita

Both Haneda and Narita airports are connected to the train network, so there is no need to use an airport bus unless your final destination is poorly served by rail. At Haneda, terminals 1 and 2 connect to the Tokyo Monorail, while terminal 3, used by most international flights, connects to the Keiyo Line. The monorail reaches Hamamatsucho in roughly 13 to 18 minutes, and the Keiyo Line reaches Shin-Kiba in about 15 to 20 minutes. Central fares are usually 400 to 700 yen. At Narita, the Skyliner reaches Ueno or Nippori in about 36 minutes for 2,580 yen one way. The Keisei Access Express is slower but usually costs 1,300 to 1,600 yen.

The warning worth reading: every traveller needs an IC card

The trains are not a problem, they are the solution, but you need an IC card. A physical Suica or PASMO card usually costs 500 yen and can be topped up at airport ticket machines, station machines or convenience stores. Availability can be poor, particularly for Welcome Suica and airport-only counters, so buy one before leaving the airport. Every traveller needs a separate card; two people cannot normally pass a gate on one IC card. Tap the card on both entry and exit. Top up in smaller amounts because some machines limit how much cash they will load in one go, and keep 1,000 to 2,000 yen available. A mobile Suica card works on supported iPhones, but a physical card is the dependable choice for a short trip.

Rush hour, fares and the last train

The busiest period on weekdays is generally 7:30 to 9:30 a.m., when trains are crowded with office workers, and 4:30 to 7:30 p.m., when the trains fill in the opposite direction. Shinjuku and Shibuya are particularly slow at those times, and platforms can be confusing. Add 20 to 30 minutes to transfer estimates. Central JR trips usually cost 140 to 230 yen, subway trips 180 to 260 yen, and private railway journeys 140 to 230 yen. Most city buses accept IC cards and cost 210 to 230 yen, though some routes do not. A short taxi ride in the centre commonly costs 700 to 1,100 yen and can take 30 to 50 minutes in traffic. The last major services generally leave central stations between 12:30 and 1 a.m., so check the route before a late night in Golden Gai.

Rain season, typhoons and August heat

The rainy season, called tsuyu, usually begins in the first or second week of June and lasts into mid-July, although the dates vary. June receives about 168 mm of rain and July about 156 mm, much of it in short bursts rather than continuous downpours. Pack a compact umbrella, waterproof shoes and a light layer. The typhoon season runs from late August into October, with the greatest risk in late August and September. A typhoon can mean little more than wet weather, but a direct hit can suspend rail services, close shops and make elevated structures unpleasant. Check forecasts and JR East service notices 24 to 48 hours ahead, and do not schedule a train to the airport immediately before an international flight. August's average daytime high is about 32°C, with high humidity, so outdoor work is best in the morning and after 5 p.m.

Tokyo: the Neighbourhoods, Japan

Where to stay and what a five-day visit costs

Shinjuku or Shibuya are the most convenient areas if the priority is trains, restaurants and nightlife. For quieter nights, consider Koenji, Nakano, Sugamo or Otsuka, all of which have good rail connections without the volume of Shinjuku. Shinjuku rooms close to the station can be noisy, while Shibuya is often more expensive. A simple business hotel commonly costs 15,000 to 25,000 yen per room per night on weekdays and 20,000 to 35,000 yen at weekends. Capsule hotels usually cost 7,000 to 12,000 yen. Depending on the room price, Tokyo accommodation tax can add 100 or 500 yen per person per night. Most paid temples and museums charge 500 to 1,500 yen. The best museums are free, including the National Art Center, the National Museum of Modern Art and the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum, although some require reservations. For five days, expect roughly 3,500 to 6,000 yen on trains, 15,000 to 25,000 yen on meals and 2,000 to 6,000 yen on admissions, excluding flights and accommodation.

Where to eat, what to avoid and final warnings

A casual lunch costs 800 to 1,500 yen, an izakya dinner usually costs 1,500 to 3,000 yen, and a more substantial meal runs from 2,000 to 4,000 yen. Convenience-store food ranges from about 300 to 700 yen, while department-store basement food halls are a reliable, more expensive option for lunch. Carry 5,000 to 10,000 yen in cash because small bars, shrine stalls and independent shops are not consistent about cards; 7-Eleven and Japan Post ATMs usually accept foreign cards, sometimes with a fee. Do not assume Nakamise is a cheap food street, do not visit Tsukiji expecting it to be open on Sunday, and do not go to Odaiba in swimwear. In Golden Gai, confirm the cover charge and drink minimum before ordering. A busy deck, a shopping-centre attraction and two bars in one night can consume a large part of a travel budget. Finally, allow 120 minutes to reach Narita before an international flight and at least 60 minutes for Haneda, adding more time for traffic and station walking.