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Country
World Heritage Site
The monument everyone arrives for, the city behind it, and the deserted Mughal capital thirty kilometres away.
1 guide
City
Three cities in one: Shahjahanabad, Lutyens Delhi and the villages that predate both.
1 guide
City
The pink city, the hill forts that defended it, and the desert beyond that most itineraries skip.
1 guide
A thousand kilometres of lagoons that are actually canals, and the tea and spice hills above them.
1 guide
The oldest continuously inhabited city in the world, and what it is actually like at four in the morning on a ghat.
1 guide
Agra, Fatehpur Sikri and the Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal is the reason most people come to Agra, but the city behind it, the Mughal fort, the riverside garden and the abandoned capital at Fatehpur Sikri make a fuller journey. This guide covers the practical details, history, missed corners, costs, crowds, food and operating advice for one of India's most demanding visitor routes.
35 min read
Jaipur and the Forts of Rajasthan
The pink city, the hill forts that once defended it, and the desert most itineraries leave out.
17 min read
Varanasi and the Ganges
The city most often called the world's oldest continuously inhabited one, and what four in the morning on a ghat really looks like: working boats, wood smoke, open drains.
17 min read
Kerala: the Backwaters and the Hill Stations
A thousand kilometres of lagoons that are really canals, with the tea and spice hills rising above them.
15 min read
Delhi: Old City, New City and the Mughal Layer
Three cities in one: Shahjahanabad, Lutyens Delhi and the villages that came before both.
18 min read
