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Chiang Mai and the Northern Hills
The old walled city, the hill tribes to the north, and elephant camps that are either reformed or not. A six-day guide with real costs and timings, plus a firm warning about the smoke season.
17 min read
Varanasi and the Ganges
The city most often called the world's oldest continuously inhabited one, and what four in the morning on a ghat really looks like: working boats, wood smoke, open drains.
Kerala: the Backwaters and the Hill Stations
A thousand kilometres of lagoons that are really canals, with the tea and spice hills rising above them.
15 min read
Delhi: Old City, New City and the Mughal Layer
Three cities in one: Shahjahanabad, Lutyens Delhi and the villages that came before both.
18 min read
Everest Base Camp
The highest national park on earth, a moving glacier and an honest account of Everest Base Camp: a seasonal tent settlement with no summit view, plus a practical Khumbu route.
19 min read
Mustang
A kingdom that stayed separate until 1959, a permit that takes a week, and a wind corridor that dictates the shape of every day.
Chitwan National Park
Probably the best place anywhere to see a one-horned rhino, one of the worst to count on a tiger, and the conservation argument that runs underneath both.
14 min read
Boudhanath Stupa
How thickly temples crowd the Kathmandu Valley — and what a traveller really sees once they stop counting pagodas and start looking at them.
Pokhara
Pokhara sits below the south face of Annapurna, and three viewpoints decide whether you actually see the mountain.
